For jewellery that is to be worn every day, 14 karat gold is usually the best choice. It has a high gold content, but is at the same time alloyed with enough other metals to withstand wear, knocks and contact with skin, water and soap without scratching or bending too easily. That is also why it is the gold alloy Longvé's diamond jewellery is made in, both as 14K gold and 14K white gold.

It does, however, depend on what the jewellery is to be used for. "Best" means something different for a ring worn around the clock than for a pair of stud earrings that are rarely exposed to wear. Below, we go through what the karat number actually tells you, why 14 karat is the standard in most modern jewellery gold, and when a higher or lower number can make sense.

What the karat number tells you about the gold content

Karat is a measure of how pure the gold is, stated in 24 parts. 24 karat is pure gold, while the lower numbers show how large a proportion of the alloy is gold, and how much is other metals such as silver, copper, palladium and zinc. 18 karat equals 18 parts gold out of 24, that is 75 percent gold. 14 karat is 14 out of 24, about 58.5 percent gold, and 8 karat sits at one third gold.

The added metals are not a filler one would rather be without. Pure gold is a soft metal, and it is precisely the alloy that gives the jewellery strength, colour and the hardness required to hold a diamond in a setting for many years.

Why 14 karat gold is the most used for jewellery

14 karat hits a point where the gold still has clear warmth and weight, but is at the same time hard enough for daily use. The higher proportion of alloy metal makes it more resistant to scratches and wear than 18 karat, and a prong setting in 14 karat holds its grip on the stone better over time. For rings and bracelets that constantly bump against tables, keyboards and door handles, this means fewer visible marks and less risk of the shank bending out of shape.

At the same time, the gold content is high enough that the colour is saturated and genuine, and that the metal does not tarnish. It is this combination of durability and appearance that makes 14 karat the core metal in Longvé's range, whether it is a round pavé ring or a tennis bracelet.

When 18 karat gold is worth considering

18 karat has a higher gold content and therefore a slightly deeper, warmer golden tone. Some prefer precisely that saturated colour, and for jewellery that is not exposed to hard daily use, it can be a fine choice.

On the other hand, 18 karat is softer than 14 karat, because there is less alloy metal to provide hardness. It scratches and wears more easily, and on a ring worn daily this becomes noticeable over time. The higher gold proportion also means a higher price for the same piece of jewellery.

The choice between the two is therefore not about one being finer than the other, but about how much wear the jewellery needs to withstand, and how deep a gold colour you are after.

Why lower karat numbers such as 8 karat wear differently

8 karat gold has only around one third gold content and a large proportion of alloy metal. This makes the metal hard, but the gold colour becomes paler and less saturated, simply because there is less gold to provide the colour. The high proportion of other metals also makes it more prone to tarnishing over time.

For a piece of jewellery where the gold colour and a certain sense of weight are part of the point, it rarely makes sense to go below 14 karat. That is why it is the limit most modern jewellery gold stays above.

How white gold relates to the karat number

White gold uses the same karat system as gold. A 14K white gold therefore also contains about 58.5 percent gold, but the added metals are chosen so that the alloy takes on a cool, white tone instead of a golden one. The karat number thus says something about the gold content, not about the colour.

This means that the same advantages of 14 karat apply to both colours: the gold content is high, and the metal is hard enough for daily use. Many of Longvé's designs are available in both variants, so the same piece of jewellery can be chosen in gold or white gold depending on which colour you prefer.

Karat gold and carat diamond are two different things

It is worth keeping two concepts separate, because they are spelled almost identically. Karat with a k is a measure of the gold's purity, while carat with a c is a measure of a diamond's weight, where 1 carat equals 0.2 grams. A piece of jewellery can therefore be 14 karat gold and at the same time carry a diamond of a certain number of carats, without the two numbers having anything to do with each other.

When you look at a diamond ring, the karat number describes the metal around the stone, while the carat number describes the stone itself. Both apply, regardless of whether the diamond is lab-grown or natural.

How to choose karat according to use

For a ring or a bracelet that has daily contact with skin and hard surfaces, 14 karat is the most durable without compromising on the gold colour. If you want a deeper golden tone and accept that the jewellery needs to be treated a little more gently, 18 karat can be a deliberate choice, most often for jewellery that is worn less frequently.

For stud earrings and pendants that are only slightly exposed to wear, the difference in hardness matters less, and here the choice can be guided more by colour and price. For most everyday jewellery use, however, 14 karat is the number that gives the best balance between gold content, strength and price.