In most cases, a ring can be enlarged by a goldsmith, and there are essentially two methods: stretching the ring or soldering an extra piece of metal into the band. Which method makes sense depends on how much the ring needs to be enlarged, what metal it is made of, and whether there are stones all the way around. A plain ring without stones can often go up one to two sizes, while a ring with diamonds around the entire band sets a clear limit on what can be done.

The work itself is a job for a professional with the right tools. It is not something you do yourself at home, and a wrong attempt can damage both the metal and the setting.

How the goldsmith stretches a ring up in size

The simplest method is to stretch the ring. The ring is placed on a conical steel rod called a ring mandrel and pressed or rolled up until it reaches the desired size. The method works best on plain rings without stones and can typically move the ring about half to one size up. The advantage is that no new metal is added, so the ring retains its original appearance.

When stretched, the ring band becomes slightly thinner, because the same amount of metal is distributed over a larger circumference. On a ring with good thickness, this makes no noticeable difference, but on a thin band there are limits to how far you can go before it becomes too fragile.

When is a piece of metal soldered into the ring?

If the ring needs to go up more than a single size, or if the thickness of the band needs to be preserved, the goldsmith cuts the ring open and solders in an extra piece of the same metal. This makes it possible to move the ring several sizes at once without weakening the band. After soldering, the join is buffed and polished so the transition becomes smooth, and on a single-colour band it is afterwards hard to spot with the naked eye.

The method requires the soldered-in piece to be of the same alloy as the rest of the ring, so the colour and hardness match. That is why it is an advantage for the goldsmith to know the ring's metal before the work begins.

How much can a ring be enlarged?

As a rule of thumb, a plain ring without stones can go one to two sizes up by stretching, and more than that by soldering in metal. The limit is set by the ring's construction rather than by the method itself. A wide, sturdy band has more to give than a fine, thin ring, and the more you move the size, the greater the intervention required.

On a ring with stones, it is no longer just the band that decides. A solitaire rings with a single centre stone on top typically has a plain underside that can be enlarged without problems, because the setting sits far from the area being worked on. Rings with stones all the way around are a different matter.

Can an eternity ring be enlarged?

An eternity ring has small diamonds set all the way around the band, which makes it difficult to enlarge. There is no plain piece of metal to stretch or cut into without getting in the way of the stones, and even a small change in circumference can alter the distance between the settings. In practice, most eternity rings can therefore only be adjusted very little, if at all.

If you are in doubt about the size, it is wise to be extra careful with the measurement before choosing a ring with stones all the way around. A large half eternity ring, on the other hand, has diamonds halfway around and a plain underside, and therefore has more room to work with if the size needs to be changed. If you want a diamond-set look without fully committing to one circumference, there are several models among the eternity rings.

Does the metal matter for whether the ring can be enlarged?

Yes, the metal plays a role. 14K gold and 14K white gold can both be worked well and can be both stretched and soldered. White gold usually has a rhodium plating on the surface that gives it the white colour, and after enlarging, the worked area may need to be rhodium-plated again so the colour becomes even.

Sterling silver can also be enlarged, but it is a softer metal, and a wide, flat ring without stones such as a signet ring behaves differently than a thin gold band. Regardless of the metal, it is the ring's thickness and shape that, together with the material, determine what is possible.

What does it cost to have a ring enlarged?

The price depends on the method, the metal, and how much the ring needs to be moved. A simple stretch on a plain ring is the cheapest, while soldering in metal costs more, because it requires more work and added material. If a white gold ring needs to be rhodium-plated afterwards, or if there are stones to take into account, that is added on top. Since each piece is different, the most precise way is to have the ring assessed by a goldsmith before the price is set.

When is it better to measure correctly from the start?

Although many rings can be enlarged, it is always easiest to get the size right from the beginning, especially with rings that have stones all the way around, where there is little leeway. The circumference of fingers also fluctuates throughout the day and with temperature, so a single measurement can be deceptive.

In Denmark, ring size is most often given as the internal circumference in millimetres, and it can be converted from the ring's internal diameter:

If you have a ring that already fits, you can measure its internal diameter and use the table as a starting point. This gives a solid basis, whether you later end up having the ring adjusted or choose a new size from the start. If you want to see the different looks before deciding, you can take a closer look at the selection of rings.