• What is a signet ring?
  • A signet ring is a ring with a wide, flat plate on the top. The plate is the ring's hallmark: it is larger and flatter than on an ordinary ring and takes up a good part of the top of the finger. Originally, the plate was engraved with a motif, a letter or a coat of arms, so the ring could be pressed into hot sealing wax and leave an impression. Today, the signet ring is worn first and foremost as a piece of jewellery with a recognisable, classic shape, often entirely without engraving.

    The shape is what sets the signet ring apart from other rings. Where a solitaire ring or a pavé ring is built on diamonds, the signet ring's expression rests on the metal itself and the flat surface of the plate. This makes it one of the more understated rings you can wear, and a type that works equally well for everyday use and for more dressed-up occasions.

    Why was the signet ring used as a seal?

    Signets have been used as a kind of signature since antiquity, and the finger ring with an engraved seal became widespread through the Middle Ages. Both individuals and institutions had their own seal motif, which was pressed into wax or lacquer to seal and authenticate letters and documents. A signet ring was practical, because the owner always carried their seal with them on their hand.

    The motif was engraved in reverse and recessed into the plate, so the impression in the lacquer would come out correct and raised. A personal coat of arms or a monogram made the impression difficult to imitate, and the ring thus functioned both as identification and as a guarantee that a document was genuine.

    That function has largely disappeared today, but the shape has remained. That is why many people wear a signet ring without ever using it for an impression.

    What a signet ring looks like

    A signet ring consists of a wide band that flattens out at the top into a plate. The plate can have different shapes, and the shape helps determine the character of the ring. An oval plate looks softer and more classic, while a square or rectangular plate gives a more striking and graphic expression.

    At Longvé, the signet ring is available both with an oval plate in an oval signet ring and with a square plate in a square signet ring, both in sterling silver. The surface of the plate is typically polished and smooth, ready to be worn as it is, but it can also be engraved if you want a personal motif or a letter.

    The width of the band is part of the signature. It gives the ring a certain weight on the finger and a solid expression, which is exactly what many people seek when they choose this type over a thinner ring.

    What materials is a signet ring made of?

    The signet ring is traditionally a metal ring, where the metal itself carries the expression. Sterling silver is a classic choice and is used for Longvé's signet rings, where the cool, light tone suits the wide, flat shape well.

    Some signet rings have a set stone in the plate instead of a smooth metal surface. A dark stone such as black agate gives a clear contrast to the metal and a calm, elegant expression. This can be seen, among others, in a square signet ring black agate and in a rectangular signet ring black agate, where the stone fills the plate and becomes the centrepiece of the ring.

    If you want to see the different models gathered together, they can be found in the signet rings collection.

    How is a signet ring worn today?

    Today, the signet ring is worn as a standalone piece of jewellery without any practical function. Traditionally it sat on the little finger, but today it is worn on whichever finger feels right, and just as often on the index or middle finger. The wide shape works well on its own, where it has room to stand out clearly.

    Because the signet ring is understated in its expression, it is easy to combine with other jewellery. It can be worn together with thinner rings on the other fingers or stand as a counterweight to more sparkling pieces. Where a diamond ring draws the eye to the stones, the signet ring draws it to the shape and the metal.

    If you want to explore other types of rings alongside the signet ring, the rings collection gives an overview of the other designs.

    Can a signet ring be engraved?

    The plate on a signet ring is well suited to engraving, precisely because it is large and flat. Historically, the engraving was the whole point, and although most people today wear the ring with a smooth surface, it can still be fitted with a motif, a monogram or a single letter.

    A smooth, unengraved plate and an engraved plate give two quite different expressions. The smooth one is clean and timeless, while the engraving makes the ring personal and ties it to a specific person. If you want a letter as a recurring theme in your jewellery rather than on a ring, letters are also available as pendants, necklaces and bracelets in the letters collection.